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Coups de cœur Cultura
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Most of surfing is not spent riding waves.
It happens in the waiting.
Beyond the break, time stretches. The body rests. The mind moves between anticipation, fear, excitement, boredom, and distraction. With no screens, no noise, and nowhere else to go, these states appear clearly and without disguise.
Between Sets is a mindfulness practice written specifically for surfers.
In the water, emotions are immediate and intensified. Fear, hope, impatience, and exhilaration rise and fall in plain view, making the ocean a natural training ground for attention—without techniques, beliefs, or performance psychology.
Rather than trying to control the mind, this book works with direct experience. Through short reflections and simple practices, it invites surfers to stay present during moments that cannot be rushed.
What is learned between sets does not stay there.
The same habits of attention appear in daily life—in traffic, at work, in relationships, and in periods of uncertainty. By becoming familiar with strong feeling and stillness in the ocean, surfers develop a steadier, less reactive way of meeting everyday life.
This is not a guide to surfing better.
It is not a motivational program.
It is an invitation to notice what is already happening — and to carry that quality of attention beyond the water.
